Adventures in the Motherland...: Oh, this port is 4,000 years old? ...is that all?

waterfall at Ein Gedi

Us tiny ants hiking the big mountains

navigating my way over rocks!

Wheofweshhh the amount of history here!! It is unreal, unreal, unreal. And although I have a sore spot when it comes to my memory and history, the tales of these places I am literally minutes from are amazing.

I am deeply sorry to my readers for not updating you sooner: life here is BUSY. There is so much to see and to do, I just cant fit it all in. Yet I am getting used to the lifestyle: everything happens tomorrow, hours aren't really hours, and EVERYTHING is casual. Helping me slow down: exactly what I was seeking.

So, here's a little play-by-play, mano-a-mano, from me to you. Mundane? ...maybe to you, but I will try to cram it all in with as many exciting details as possible (trust me, it's been exciting). Ready, go!

Thursday we did our hike to Ein Gedi. It was SWELTERINGLY hot but I made it--and it was MAJESTIC. I have never been on such a hard/long hike in such HEAT but it was truly worth it. At the end of the 2ish hour hike we got to see a hidden waterfall, which was so beautiful and we got to swim in the little pool which completely refreshed me for the way back. After that 5 hour hike we went to the Dead Sea where people got to float (I didn't go in because I had just shaved my legs--big no-no). It was still around 104 F there, at about 4 pm, so you can imagine. A few people got hurt/heatstroke etc, but it was an overall wonderful trip. We also go to meet up with the other wings of our group that are in Jerusalem and I got to meet some pretty interesting people, like this Asian Jew who wrote the SNUGGIE infomercial. Best moment of my life!! Haha.

Friday was the first day that we had "off" to prep for shabbat. The rooms and I went to the shuk (Ha'Carmel Market: shuk means market) and went shopping to make guacamole and these traditional Israeli chocolate balls for dessert. Shopping in a market is SO CHEAP and SO FUN, and having Michal with us (my personal angel) with her hebrew skizzils was amazing. However, all of us are still learning how to buy fruits and veggies so the avacados that we bought, which are different here anyways and look kind of akin to zucchini, weren't ripe (we tried so hard). So, guac was out, but we ended up making a DELICIOUS israeli salad with all of the veggies. I am going to be damn good at making those when I come hope. But: about food later. Shabbat was a great experience: everyone looked nice and we all had a potluck dinner at one of the apartments and it was really loving and sharing and wonderful.
Saturday was our first shabbat here. It was really interesting to see what people do for Shabbat in a country of Jews: none of the public transportation works, most of the stores/restaurants/shops are closed, so what do people do? Go to the beach!! Our whole group trekked down to the beach, finding a farther-away beach this time but walking through a really cool little neighborhood called Neve Tzedek which is veryyy bohemian and artsy and quaint and European. It is SO awesome to explore and take pictures and walk around in wonder. The beach was, as usual, wonderful. The Mediterranean is a bit saltier, so my lips get all krinkly and weird, but other than that it was just a beautiful day. That night we came home and all got in our PJs and a group of us sat down to watch some Israeli plays that Becky, my roommate's, boss had given her to watch. The first thing we watched was called the Velcro Show: It was like mime-slapstick mixed with uber-inventiveness and was very cool. The next piece was called Eshet (Wife of) and was one of the most evocative and beautiful plays I have ever seen. The lead female was a dancer and it involves puppetry but was SO interesting. Imagine a serious Avenue Q but much more beautiful. It is apparently a BIG hit in Israel and is touring and is also based off of a story in the bible but I am not sure which one. Finally, we stuck in a little promo reel for an arts festival that Becky is helping put together here in Israel. For some reason, and I am not sure why for me, but Becky, Jaks and I all started bawling. We just literally lost it--it is really hard for me to explain my emotional connection to Israel and the struggle and defiance and bravery and passion and sacrifice of the people here, but it is there. Even though I can't define it doesn't mean that something doesn't draw me to this place--enough for me to move here and try to figure it out. If I can get my hands on a copy of that promo reel--just the beginning part--to show everyone, I would love to. It somehow sums it all up (especially for Jaks and Becky who work in theater and the connection to theater and emotions here is so strong).

Sunday began for me with my first encounter with a bus scare. Jaks and I decided to go back to the Shuk for some more veggies and we went to our normal bus stop, but we were stopped by police who had barricaded a section of the road and had a bus trapped in the middle of it. Traffic was at a STANDSTILL and it was very scary: probably just a suspicious package, but it makes you much more aware of little bags you see that could just be laying around unattended. It's also eerie to know that the reason there are no public trashcans in this country is because of bombs...it makes everyday life a lot more deliberate and wary at first. Sunday was also my first day of work, since the workweek here is Sunday-Thursday instead of Monday-Friday. I got to meet the doctor, which was very cool, and we talked a bit about what I would be doing. I think that I am starting out with editing for the English on their website, which I am happy to do, but I am also very interested in getting my hands dirty (haha what an off-color joke) and working in the sperm lab. I also want a chance to interact directly with some of the patients so I might shadow the doctor for a few days with his procedures in the hospital. I am really excited for the possibilities there, and even though it is a small dingy office with no space for me and no time to tell me what to do I honestly have evaluated it and couldn't be happier with my placement. That night, we also had our first meeting with Sheldon Shulman, an ex-Canadian who worked in intelligence for years in the states and then in Israel and is apparently very well-known and consulted. He is going to have sessions with us on the Jewish-Palestinian conflict which I am very grateful for, and I think he is trying to teach us with as many primary sources as he can so that we can draw our own conclusions. Even though we only spoke for an hour or so, I have already learned so much about the Palestinian mentality and how difficult finding peace is going to be. He also sent us documents like the Hamas charter, which was very very interesting to see. Also, there is a search engine that translates all of the middle-eastern media into english so that we can read Jordanian and Syrian press, etc, called www.memori.com I believe. VERY interesting to see their take on current events. I also have failed to mention that every time we meet, we are meeting in the Gay and lesbian center, which makes me feel proud that something like that can exist in the middle east but also a bit wary since it is the place that was shot up a few weeks ago. Then again, what place in Israel hasn't been shot up at one time or another.

Monday, Jaks and I cleaned our apartment (they don't have swiffers in this country, oof, so it was this cool Israeli mopping technique that was pretty effective) and tidied up a bit. Then, we decided to go with a few friends to explore the old city of Yafo, or Jaffa in English. It. Was. So. Freakin. Cool!!!! I love old places like that: winding stairways and cobblestones and narrow alleys and overall quaint-ness. I have such a reverence for places so steeped in history--It's mindblowing to think about how many years that place has been standing. American senses of time are irrelevant-its is so interesting to think about all of the BIBLICAL stories about this place. Monday night we also had our first ulpan, or hebrew immersion class. It was pretty hard since it is a legit immersion class so there were maybe 3 words of english spoken the whole time, but I think I learned a lot and it is going to help me a lot. Michal is also helping us label everything around our apartment so that we will be able to learn everyday things that way too.

Today we had our first siyur, or 'field trip' I guess, to Har Adar and Latrun (technically in the west bank), which are both historically strategic wartime vantage points for whoever holds them. We talked again with sheldon about the history of these places and more about what a two-state solution would mean for Israel if the Palestinians took control of these vantage points. Although Sheldon may be a bit crass and cavalier about death and obviously a bit biased, I think that he is incredibly knowledgeable and will be able to open our eyes to stop thinking in such a westernized manner and understand how politics and negotiations in the middle east occur. There was also a BEAUTIFUL monastery at Latrun but, of course, they closed just as we got there so we couldn't go inside.

WHOOF that was a pretty exhaustive "days-in-the-life-of-Chelsea", or HHHHHelsea as I am starting to be referred to as here, lol (there's no ch- sound in Hebrew). Last but not least, I wanted to mention to everyone the FREAKING AWESOME FOODS THAT WE ARE HAVING because of Michal here. Michal and I both share a love for the culinary arts and because of such we have been having the best and most authentic Israeli meals you can't even imagine. Just a short list, but so far we have had:
chatsilim up the wazoo (anything eggplant-y or mixed with eggplant)
those chocolate balls made from crushed cookie/biscuits and cocoa powder and oil H20
challah french toast (YUM shabbat breakfast)
chavita (these egg fritata-like things that you put israeli salad and pita and hummus on)
Hummus like WOAH (SOOOO GOOD HERE)
Borekas (kind of puff-pastry things with eggplant or mushrooms or potatoes inside)
TONS of Zatar, my new favorite spice that I am bringing tons of home
aaaand, tonight we are having Shakshuka!!! Which I am told is like the ratatouille/peasant dish of Israel but is a staple: it is (I think) poached eggs in this homemade sauce/mixture of eggplants and peppers and tomatoes and cucumber and everything! It is apparently an army staple and EVERY soldier thinks that they make the best shakshuka ever. I am SO excited that Michal is introducing me to an absolutelynecessary Israeli cookbook in english so that I will be able to take some of the things that I learn here home with me.

LOVING life and MISSING you all--my love from the holy land